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Pairing Errazuriz wines at Pollen Street Social
New world wines are sometimes criticised (usually by the French!) for overwhelming subtle Michelin-starred food but award-winning blogger Jeanne Horak-Druiff of Cooksister found much to admire when she attended an Errazuriz food, wine and photography evening at Pollen Street Social.
"We kicked off with three amuse-bouches on which to practise our smartphone photography" Jeanne reports: "soft cooked Italian egg with tomato fondant, mushroom purée, potato foam and bacon powder, venison terrine crostini and a spoonful of lobster, apple, fennel and avocado which went particularly well with the Errázuriz Aconcagua Costa single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc we’d been handed on arrival - the food brought out a pronounced gooseberry flavour in the wine which was quite delicious.
This was followed by another round of amuse-bouches consisting of puffed pork skin with seaweed salt, parmesan biscuits with smoked tomato chutney and fennel seed crackers with ricotta - with the intensely flavoured biscuits and smoky chutney being my runaway favourite.
With our delicately beautiful starter of Colchester crab salad rolls with coriander pineapple, shiso leaf, compressed fennel and espelette pepper we sampled the 2013 Aconcagua Costa Sauvignon Blanc again (13% alc, RRP £12.49) - a clear pale yellow with a hint of green; a rich nose of gooseberries, cut grass and green tomato; and a palate of tropical fruit (guavas, passion fruit) but well balanced by good structure and acidity and

The Chardonnay was definitely my favourite match with the crab rolls, having enough complexity to stand up to the more strident flavours of the dish without overwhelming the more subtle ones.
For our main course we had perfectly pink Lake District rack of lamb, a fritter of braised lamb shoulder, fregola pasta in basil, olive powder, artichokes and more of that fabulous smoked tomato chutney. To match this, we tried two of the estate's reds:
· Aconcagua Costa wild fermented Pinot Noir 2011 (13.5% alc, RRP £24.00). An odd, slightly foxy or wild nose, but with good colour for a Pinot Noir, the wine was less full-bodied than I had expected, with a subtle spiciness soft tannins. It made a good match for the lamb though, emphasising the subtle gamey notes in the meat.
· Aconcagua Costa Single Vineyard Syrah 2011 (14% alc. RRP £19.99) This was by far my favourite red wine of the night with its deep inky purple colour and rich dark berry nose reminiscent of Ribena for grown-ups. The palate was equally lush and appealing, full of the autumnal flavours of ripe blackberries and blackcurrants, but with soft vanilla notes and hints of Christmas spices with a long finish. For me, though, this was a sipping wine rather than a food wine as food took the edge off the lush fruitiness and made the finish seem shorter.

With our cheese course of three cheeses (a Camembert-style cheese, a hard cheese along the lines of a Comté, and a third creamy soft cheese) together with crackers and homemade chutney we were served two of the estate's premium red blends:
· Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 2008 - 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc 6% Syrah (14.5% alc. RRP £50). This was in total contrast to the heavy, perfumed Syrah - a far lighter colour and palate full of ripe red berries as opposed to dark berries, with peppery notes and lovely balanced tannins. It seemed a lighter wine than the Syrah, despite its higher alcohol and although I liked it, I did not think it was a great match for the cheese, which seemed to emphasise the wine's acidity.
· Kai Carmenère 2010 - 96% Carmenère, 4% Petit Verdot (14.5% alc. RRP £90) This had a deep, velvety purple colour and a nose with vegetal hints but also dark red fruits and fig preserve. On the palate, there were grippy tannins and good structure with restrained fruit and flavours of Christmas cake. I found this to be an outstanding match for the cheese which seemed to bring out lovely fresh fig and peaty whisky flavours in the wine. Lovely as it was, I do have to wonder who this wine is aimed at, with a price tag of nearly one hundred pounds?
As we sat around finishing the last of the wine, we were served a wonderfully light and refreshing dessert of mandarin sorbet topped with yoghurt cream and kafir lime shavings; and those of us who had the shortest journey home and could afford to linger the longest were also rewarded with glorious little warm financiers with a centre of raspberry jam, fresh from the oven."
To read about the food photography element of the evening with photographer Paul Winch-Furness read the second part of Jeanne’s report here.
DISCLOSURE: Jeanne attended this event as a guest of Errázuriz Estate and R&R Teamwork. All opinions are her own.

How to use your smartphone to take great restaurant shots
Jeanne Horak-Druiff aka Cooksister, no mean photographer herself, picks up some tips from top photographer Paul Winch-Furness at a recent Errasuriz wine pairing dinner at Pollen Street Social
Jeanne writes: "It's not often that I get invited to attend an event that seamlessly incorporates three of my passions - but this is exactly what happened when I was recently invited to attend a food and wine matching dinner at Jason Atherton's splendid Pollen Street Social.
Wines were to be provided by premium Chilean estate Errázuriz and renowned London food photographer Paul Winch-Furness would be on hand to give us smart phone food photography tips. How could I say no?
As encouragement to all those who only ever use their phone for food snaps Paul quipped: "When I go to photograph a restaurant, I take an initial snap with my phone just to see how the food looks - and then I spend the rest of the shoot trying to take one photo that looks as perfect with my big camera!".
Here are the highlights of what Paul had to say:
- People often ask "what is the best camera for photographing food?" The bottom line is that the best camera is the one you have on you when you need to snap that shot. For most of us, this is our phone camera - but it's worth investing in a good one if you're regularly going to use it to shoot food.
- One of the advantages of phone cameras in restaurants is that they are far less conspicuous than large cameras, enabling you to snap your food without annoying fellow-diners. Another advantage is their social-media connections - the reason why most people want to snap food photos is to share them with others, and while your phone is linked to social media networks, your camera probably isn't.
As with any camera, TURN OFF YOUR FLASH!
- To prevent camera shake once your flash is off, you can make a "tripod" by holding your phone in both hands and resting your elbows on the table. Paul also showed us that you can rest a smartphone vertically in a (preferably empty!) wine glass in order to steady it before taking a picture.
- Although most camera phones have a macro (or close-up) function, more interesting shots are often obtained by panning out a little and including plates, cutlery, glasses and other bits and bobs that make a shot a little more interesting and give it context. (This gave me food for thought as it’s the opposite of what I normally do with my camera.)
- Make a virtue out of your smartphone's small size to take angles that you'd struggle to get on a larger camera - overhead shots can be really interesting as can table-level angles.
- Just like me, Paul is a huge fan of Instagram and spent some time explaining how easy this phone app is to use - and how much fun. When you take photos within the Instagram environment, the photo is only taken when you release the shutter button, which is another way to minimise camera shake.
- Being forced to crop your photos square for Instagram is also something to bear in mind when you compose a shot - will the main elements fit into a square? Paul made us laugh with his mention of "filter anxiety" - when you just can't hit that publish button in case the 300th filter you try is the best one ever!
For those of us who don't want to get up close and personal with our camera phone settings (shutter speed, exposure, white balance, ISO etc.) Paul suggested that the best phone post-processing app is Snapseed whose user-friendly sliders allow you to adjust contrast, colour cast, brightness and a host of other settings to counteract low light before uploading the photo to your social network of choice.
To practise our smartphone photography, the restaurant provided three amuse-bouches: soft cooked Italian egg with tomato fondant, mushroom purée, potato foam and bacon powder served in an eggshell placed in a ceramic duck foot-shaped egg-cup (now that was a challenge to shoot!), venison terrine crostini and a spoonful of lobster, apple, fennel and avocado. More on how the wines worked with these and other dishes tomorrow. In the meantime I’m checking out Snapseed . . . "
See how Errazuriz wines paired with top chef Jason Atherton’s food.
DISCLOSURE: Jeanne attended this event as a guest of Errázuriz Estate and R&R Teamwork. Her photographs were taken on a Nokia Lumia 920.
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